Indonesia (Again): Beyond Bali
By Mike Stratton
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Marj's Note: A couple of years ago, Mike traveled to Bali, just one of the thousands of islands that comprise the sprawling archipelago of Indonesia. Recently, he returned to explore some of the less-visited isles in the area called East Nusa Tenggara, east of Bali, a more typical travel destination . He posted on Facebook as he traveled and what follows are a few excerpts and photos which capture the essence of his trip.
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I flew out of a one-gate airport today, one of those relaxed island experiences that took all of 3 minutes, from entering the terminal, checking in, receiving a boarding pass, checking a bag, walking through security 10 feet away and then watching my plane land outside the large windows of the airport's only gate.
I love flying short, domestic hops when overseas, because they not only transport you deeper into the journey, but they help you recreate that arrival excitement all over again. The town of Labuan Bajo on the western coast of Flores offers the familiar Indonesian rhythms, but something entirely new. Instead of gazing at a towering volcano, I'm sitting at a bar overlooking the harbor and islands rising from the sea just beyond. There will be trips to book, boats to ride, dragons to dodge, but flying low and slow today reminded me how Indonesia has revealed itself to be so easy and breezy to navigate. |
When I looked at my little island on a map at home, I was intimidated, because of its global isolation and exotic unknowns. But I was cursed two years ago when I saw my first picture (in a magazine) of Mt. Kelimutu, somewhere I had never even known had existed. I instantly knew I had to visit. Someday. It is still hard to find on a map (some show a different island name), but I am here. I think the key is just not giving up when your trip looks too difficult or complicated or out of reach. There's always a way.
After landing at Komodo International Airport, I greeted my guy, who held a cardboard "Mike Stratton" sign at arrivals, and climbed aboard his scooter for a sun-splashed 15-minute ride to my hotel. Traveling is the epitome of human propulsion, that continual push of exhilarating movement across the planet by plane, auto, cycle or sail. And if done properly, that traveling momentum works best on your imagination. The fish is good here. The scenery even better. The locals? The best. |
click on images to view full photos and captions throughout this site
Mike got a ride to the top of Mt. Kelimutu with a local scooter driver. His story continues on a day that threatened rain . . .I rode a mile high into the clouds on the steepest, curviest rainforest mountain road this side of Peru, past rugged villages, waterfalls and green rice terraces clinging to the steep slopes. Halfway up the mountain we encountered a stretch of mist and fog, and I was forlorn. Oh no. But the joy I felt when we penetrated the mountainous muck may have elicited a "whoo hoo" from this passenger. Mt. Kelimutu!
I wish I could describe the dramatic sight as I first glimpsed the magical, surreal lake in Mt. Kelimutu's caldera, a lake incomparable in its deep, rich coloration. And then another. And another! The famous 3 lakes change color depending on the mineral content and temperature, so each visitor sees a different combo of colors, from turquoise to black to red. The lakes were formed after the volcano blew its top; volcanoes in this region are all too eager to please. The destructive aftermath left malevolent yet gorgeous earthly art, unique and bizarre, an Indonesian fairy tale come to life.
My driver/guide told me to take my time. "You have come a long way" he smiled through broken English. I nearly had the summit to myself, but gladly shared my excitement with two other fellow travelers, those who find the reward in taking that leap. I carved out a quiet moment, just me and the shattered old volcano, still active yet so welcoming. The sun cast cloudy shadows over the waters below, and I closed my eyes. "Let it rain," I thought. "Let it pour!" Nothing from the skies above or the earth below could ever ruin such a magical day on this most extraordinary living, breathing space rock.
I wish I could describe the dramatic sight as I first glimpsed the magical, surreal lake in Mt. Kelimutu's caldera, a lake incomparable in its deep, rich coloration. And then another. And another! The famous 3 lakes change color depending on the mineral content and temperature, so each visitor sees a different combo of colors, from turquoise to black to red. The lakes were formed after the volcano blew its top; volcanoes in this region are all too eager to please. The destructive aftermath left malevolent yet gorgeous earthly art, unique and bizarre, an Indonesian fairy tale come to life.
My driver/guide told me to take my time. "You have come a long way" he smiled through broken English. I nearly had the summit to myself, but gladly shared my excitement with two other fellow travelers, those who find the reward in taking that leap. I carved out a quiet moment, just me and the shattered old volcano, still active yet so welcoming. The sun cast cloudy shadows over the waters below, and I closed my eyes. "Let it rain," I thought. "Let it pour!" Nothing from the skies above or the earth below could ever ruin such a magical day on this most extraordinary living, breathing space rock.